As a Yakitori Restaurant in NoMad, TEISUI has amused gourmands in New York by serving robatayakai grilled dishes in both course menu and a la carte. Now they are expanding and enriching their repertoire with the helm of Chef Takayuki Nakamura, expert in European cuisines including French, Spanish, Italian, and Mediterranean. He brings a nice wa (harmony) to TEISUI cuisine by melding Japanese ingredients and Western techniques that he mastered from his experiences in the European countries.
Sea Urchin with Avocado, for example, tops plentiful sea urchin from Hokkaido over a slice of avocado and squid ink bread. “Sea urchin and squid pair very well, in general. I asked myself how I could best express sea urchin in my dish, and the answer was squid ink bread, which is often used in Italian and Spanish cuisines. And I use avocado to bridge the two completely different textures of sea urchin and the bread,” explains Chef Nakamura. His inventiveness can be seen in sushi rolls as well. Prosciutto and Cheese Roll and Wagyu and Mayo Roll are good examples of their East and West harmony. Another masterpiece is Assorted Seasonal Vegetable Tempura. Locally harvested vegetables in season are made into tempura and served with foamed tempura sauce. They also serve non-fusion dishes like Italian staple Osso Buco made with Japanese craftsmanship.
Open kitchen style dining allows diners to watch chefs’ work while eating. To sample new TEISUI flavor, 7-course Chef’s Tasting is recommended. Their signature Yakitori Course is also available for robatayaki dish fans.
ncredibly tender Osso Buco is slow-cooked in flavorful stock for 3 hours.
Sea urchin, avocado and squid ink bread create amazing harmony.
Creative roll Chef Nakamura style: Brie cheese, apricot, and cucumber are rolled in a thin layer of rice and wrapped with Prosciutto.
246 5th Ave., (entrance on 28th St.), New York, NY 10001 | TEL: 917-388-3596 | www.teisui.nyc | Mon-Wed: 5:30-10:30 pm, Thu-Sat: 5:30-11 pm
Mother-son team, Qihui Guan and Yuan Lee opened Drunken Dumpling in the East Village last fall, making a splash with the famous Extra Large Soup Dumpling (aka XL XLB, $11.75). Its pork broth is reduced for 7-8 hours with crab, shrimp, and traditional soup dumpling ingredients to make the filling. The fat is then filtered to leave a collagen-rich treat, and the thin-skinned dumpling is steamed for 15 minutes for perfection.
This gigantic dumpling requires finesse to eat. First the broth should be sipped with a straw to enjoy the condensed umami, and then the dumpling opened with a spoon to eat the crab, shrimp and pork inside. XL XLB is a deliciously filling dish that is first-come first-served due to limited quantities.
According to Lee, what differentiates his shop from other dumpling joints is the healthiness of its offerings. Drunken Dumpling considers itself “farm to table,” as ingredients are procured from local farms. The food’s safety is thereby guaranteed, and because of the pork’s high quality there is no need for extra salt, MSG or other additives. Says Lee, “Our soup dumplings have traditional Shanghainese flavor, which is mild, sweet and tender.”
In addition to dumplings, the restaurant’s menu includes both sweet and savory buns (pork with scallion and red bean with local honey), as well as six types of Beijing-style pot stickers that are served steamed or fried and include a vegetarian version. There is also an extensive craft beer lineup, so Drunken Dumpling literally offers something for everyone!
If you directly bite into XL XLB, you might break the dumpling skin and lose savory soup. The best way is to poke a straw into it and sip the umami-rich soup first.
Bite size soup dumplings are also available, and equally scrumptious as the extra large version.
137 1st Ave., (bet. 8th & 9th Sts.), New York, NY 10003 | TEL: 212-982-8882 | www.drunkendumplingny.com | Sun-Thu: 12 pm-10 pm, Fri & Sat: 12 pm-12 am