Japanese Culture in New York - Chopsticks NY

Tenugui as artwork:  Wuhao New York owner Ruri Kippenbrock (right) and
I pose with a tenugui scroll and framed tenugui.

It turns out I’ve owned tenugui without really knowing what it was.  Some of them are framed and hanging on the walls of my apartment.  To me the cotton cloth was a nice souvenir from Japan that could make a pretty decoration.  I wasn’t completely wrong, but I wasn’t completely informed, either.

Recently, I met Ms. Ruri Kippenbrock, owner of Wuhao New York, an online company that sells tenugui, to discuss the history and evolution of this rectangle of cloth.  I also needed her to shed some light on what I assumed were handkerchiefs that now sit above my couch and bed.  I underestimated tenugui.  A versatile cloth whose meaning is derived from te (hand) and nugui (to wipe), tenugui began as a modest towel, but evolved into much more.

The earliest known use of tenugui can be traced back to the Kofun Era (mid 3rd to mid 6th Century) when a clay figurine, known as a haniwa, was found with a cloth tied around its head.During the Kamakura Era (late 12th Century -1333), samurai lined their helmets with tenugui, which absorbed the sweat from their foreheads during battle.  Centuries later, I’ve noticed that sushi chefs and waiters continue to wear tenugui as headgear.  Widespread use of tenugui among nobles, who used them as hand and face towels, began in the Heian Era (794-late 12th Century).  I’ve always thought these cloths were too pretty to use to scrub one’s face, but according to Ms. Kippenbrock, the 100% cotton fabric is what made – and continues to make – this cloth durable.

Tenugui’s popularity increased in the Edo Era (1603-1867), when Kabuki actors designed their own personal tenugui for use on stage.  They were treated as business cards for the actors, with fans purchasing them as a show of support.  This sparked competition among commoners at the sento, or public bath.  At the bath, people in the community would show off their tenugui, leading to design contests.  In addition, merchants started designing tenugui with their family emblems to use as advertisements for their shops.

The existence of tenugui decreased during World War II, when the limited supply of cotton and the Cotton Control Act restricted the production of tenugui.  Because there was a limit of only two tenugui per family per year, its use in the household declined.  After the war, restaurants and shops revitalized the custom of making tenugui as advertisements. From there, tenugui evolved into a kitchen towel rather than a bath towel.

Traditional patterns of tenugui made popular by Kabuki actors.

Today, tenugui is enjoying another rebirth.  With a versatility that lends itself to many uses beyond that of a standard towel, the tenugui of today are being used as placemats, scarves, and, in my case, framed artwork.

This being the Christmas season, another practical way in which tenugui can be used is to wrap gifts with it, which is something Ms. Kippenbrock taught me how to do.  At first I was intimidated, but after Ms. Kippenbrock wrapped a bottle of wine in two minutes, I realized it’s an easy way to dress up a present.  The rectangular shape of the tenugui lends itself well to oblong objects such as wine bottles and DVD boxes.  Lay the tenugui lengthwise on a table, place the bottle or box in the center, fold the sides over and twist the ends.  It’s as simple as that.  I also learned how to wrap apples; the finished product looked like a wreath.  Attractive and functional, a gift wrapped in tenugui is two presents in one.  Not only is it an inexpensive alternative to wrapping paper, the reusable tenugui is also environmentally friendly.

(left)Using tenugui as gift wrap is a beautiful and environmentally friendly way to dress up a present.
(right) I was surprised by how easy it was to wrap a bottle of wine with a tenugui.

The easiest part about tenugui, Ms. Kippenbrock tells me, is that there are no rules.  With tenugui, Japanese culture meets the world’s imagination.  Ms. Kippenbrock’s approach is about the tradition of the craftsmanship and the history of a simple towel combined with one’s own style.  It lined the helmets of samurai, served as a business card for Kabuki actors, washed backs at public baths, and triggered design competitions.  Now it adorns walls, decorates tables, and wraps gifts.  What will your tenugui do for you?

———— Reported by Susan Hamaker

Wuhao New York, Inc.
410 Park Ave., 15th Fl. New York, NY 10022
TEL: 212-231-8126  FAX: 212-231-8121
www.wuhaonyc.com / info@wuhaonyc.com