Tachinomi - Traditional Quickies Make A Trendy Comeback -
Tachinomi literally means drinking while standing. Traditionally this kind of drinking took place in a bar without stools, usually annexed to a local liquor store or located underneath a railroad overpass. Although their cheap and greasy atmosphere sometimes included little rodent customers running around the feet of the human customers, Tachinomi used to be popular stops for Japan’s salarymen who would flock there after a long and stressful day. They’d unwind with some beer and sake, exchanging office gossip, before finally heading home.
However, two years ago, Tachinomi suddenly started sprouting up all over Tokyo again. Part of their appeal was that they kept the traditional Tachinomi rules, such as cheap prices (a glass of draft beer costs 300 yen and appetizers cost less than 500 yen), but the new places also sport sleek minimalist decor and are cleaner.
Most surprisingly, they’re attracting sophisticated young women, some in couples, others with friends. “This is cheap, quick and delicious,” said a woman from a computer company. “We drink here three nights a week” her female friend, a flight attendant, added. Their favorite drink: Potato Shochu on the rocks costing 400 yen a glass. Tonight’s appetizer is yakiton or grilled pork belly on a skewer, costing 180 yen. ”We never spend more than 2,000 yen at Tachinomi. Maximum two drinks,” the woman says.
Some Tachinomi issue prepaid cards while others have a more old-fashioned system: putting 1,000 yen notes in a beer pitcher and deducting the price each time the customer orders. Most regulars will “Tachnimoi-hop,” stopping off at several of these standing bars in one night.
As the night progresses, the capacity crowds spill out onto the street. At the long wooden bar, strangers drink shoulder to shoulder. The casual atmosphere inspires men and women to chat together, and in one corner two businessmen are showing off their newly acquired iPhone to a group of young women from an investment bank. Could this be a new meeting spot for singles?
“Nope,” the owner of the Tachinomi, GOHIIKINI in Shinbashi, shakes his head while preparing yakiton. ”Because they’re standing and ordering cash-on-delivery style, the meetings are too fast. I almost never see any successful flirting here.” At a modern Tachinomi, a woman is totally independent from a man’s offer to buy her a drink. Let’s just have a quick one and good-bye! This speediness enables the massive turnover that enables Tachinomi to provide good food at a low cost.
(Hideo Nakamura)
Tachinomi, once monopolized by male salary-men,
now attracts young female customers.
